April 25, 2011
If it weren't for the boy in the centre sitting and facing where he is, I don't think there would have been a picture at all.
So many of the subjects are looking to the right, I really needed the boys knees to bring the eye back to the receding row of pilings.
Also the focus is very soft - have yet to determine why.
Thanks for the quick reply. After pressing down pin #2 like you instructed, I hit the rewind button and the counter magically went back to number 1 frame. Thanks so much for the help!
You are welcome! And remember to enjoy all 11 Fully Automatic Features!
Posted by JJ Lee at 1:40 AM
April 24, 2011
I have some problems with my Nikon L35AF2. I recently tried using it and am not able to set the counter back at 1. What has happened is that it is stucked at about 22/24 and then I would take shots even after 36, hoping I'll have enough shots before rewinding. Everything is fine, except for the counter. Is it possible to self-fix this? Or else, I'd have to keep reminding myself the amount of shots I've taken.
Take care. Regards.
Nina, there is a return spring in the film counter that MAY be misaligned or snapped. Let's see if we can find out.
You will need a small piece of tape big enough to hold down the button identified as 1 in the picture above.
You will need another piece of tape to hold down the flash.
You will also need a small toothpick or a screwdriver to push the metal pin identified as 2 in the picture above.
1. Make sure your camera is off. (Too many people have destroyed Nikon One Touches by loading batteries and film with the lens cover open).
2. Load batteries.
3. Open the film door.
4. At this point, the film counter should reset back to zero.
5. Obviously, your camera doesn't. Take the toothpick or screw driver and try to push and move the pin identified as number 2 in the image above. What you want to do is get the pin to come back up and to move to the left of the opening. That's the reset position. You want to work the pin so it releases a catch.
If this doesn't work:
6. Tape down number 1. And tape down the flash so it can't pop up. Turn on and fire the camera. See if the camera will advance three frames.
7. If it doesn't, with the small screw driver or toothpick, push down the silver pin identified as 2 in the image above.
8. Press the shutter release. Based on your note the camera should advance three frames. Does the counter move at all? Some sort of catch should be engaged at this point. Work the pin around and fire the shutter with the hope of catching it.
9. There is also a pin under number 1 but I don't think it effects the counter reset function. You'll need another set of hands to push that pin down as well.
The most important thing is to get pin 2 to reset the counter.
It's not a sure fire fix but if you're lucky it will catch and reset. Let me know, JJ
April 23, 2011
Best advice of the day because it's true:
Consider your Olympus Infitnity Stylus Epic the little 35mm point and shoot that wants to be a portrait camera.
Consider your Olympus Infitnity Stylus Epic the little 35mm point and shoot that wants to be a portrait camera
Today I received a comment/query regarding the Olympus Infinity Stylus Epic. Huzaifa recently shot with the mju-ii and found it less sharp than the Nikon L35AF.
I've personally found the Infinity Stylus Epic plenty sharp in the past so I thought I'd share my comment/conversation with you.
The above is my favourite family photograph taken with the camera. Up close one can see the herringbone weave in the cotton fedora that the brat on the left is wearing. So, it is very sharp. However, when using a P&S camera, it's always good to remember how that camera's program AE works. Some favour sharpness. Others favour shutter speed to reduce camera shake.
Also, it's always good to use film that doesn't have a reputation for being grainy if you are trying to evaluate a lens for sharpness (I just can't stand it when people try to evaluate lens performance with high grain films like Kodak Gold or Fuji Superia, it just doesn't work as they have twice the grain of Kodak's C41 black and white or Ilford's XP2).
Huzaifa used Kodak 100 Ektar, which is a fine print film, that's I've discovered but it can be grainy as a digital file. Not sure why, it just does.
Here was our conversation:
Huzaifa Yamin said...
hi, i just finished my 1st roll on olympus stylus epic but unfortunately i found its images not as sharp as nikon. is this true or my stylus epic got some problem?
JJ Lee said...
Hi Huzaifa, I would say normally the Olympus Infinity Stylus Epic should offer sharper pictures or equally so. And only if you mean by Nikon you mean the L35AF. I'd have to see the photographs.
One thing to note is these cameras don't have intelligent AF. You have to keep the principal subject in the middle or prefocus by half-depressing the shutter lease to lock the AF and then re-composing. Of course, if you know all this, there could be other factors at play before consider your Infinity Stylus Epic (mju-II, right?) a dud.
JJ Lee said...
Hi Huzaifa: I had a look at some of your flickr images:
1. Kodak 100 Ektar comes across as grainy in digital. Apparently they make very smooth optical prints but just scan grainy - not sure why.
2. Because you don't have any principal subjects in your images if is hard to evaluate sharpness of the lens. Graininess is never caused by a lense. Softness of focus and aberrations like ghosting or chroma are characteristic of lens flaws. I see nothing like that in your images.
3. Consider taking pictures of subjects within ten feet of you to really give the Olympus Infinity Stylus Epic a chance. The program autoexposure was optimized for taking pictures of PEOPLE [by this I mean it favours wide apertures and faster shutter speeds]. The lens nearly always want to go wide in aperture, so that's something to consider. The mju-ii is a tiny little camera that wants to be a portrait camera. Really, that's how the program AE works.
April 20, 2011
April 19, 2011
The one reason I don't shoot with this camera more is it belongs to my wife's departed and well-missed father, Cyril.
It also has a selenium meter which will one day run out. I hate that.
So, when I bought the Voigtlander Vito B viewfinder with a Color Skopar lens at 50mm F3.5 this weekend, my big hope to have a viewfinder that could take low natural light shots like the one above. There's something very creamy and delicious about the image (is the milk bottle making me hungry) which I'd like to make with the Vito B.
April 17, 2011
I believe the new (old) camera I bought today is a 1955 version of the Vito B.
It has the Prontor SVS shutter with the same matching shutter speeds: 300. 100, 50, 25, 10, 5, 2, 1, and B. Other Vito B's will have 125 instead of 100.
However a very nice website cataloging versions of the Vito B's suggests that because my Vito B has lugs with concentric circles on the camera's strap lugs, it may be from 1956.
Perhaps it is a transition camera.
I would like to warn the Vito B-curious that a wikiHow post says never set the synchronizing lever (the thing that says "V, X, M" - labeled as 5 in yellow at the left) on "V".
Apparently it's the self-timer with a weak spring. If it breaks the shutter won't fire.
Other good pointers are at Matt's Classic Cameras.
*****The best tip I have found online regarding the Vito B is often potential buyers will think the camera doesn't work because the shutter won't cock.
What they don't know is the Vito B needs film in the camera to reset the shutter. The lever moves the film uptake, the film advances against the sprocket, the sprocket cocks the shutter. To find out if a Vito B has a working shutter, open the camera chamber and advance the sprocket with your thumb.
There are three important days for my photography and camera collecting calendar.
One is the Hyack Parade, New Westminster's spring rite and festival. I've been photographing the participants for my social documentary project for the last five years.
The other red letter day is actually every weekend during the summer where I play with the boys at the beach AND continue my At The Beach (ever-changing working title) series.
The third big day is the Vancouver Camera Show. I had a long list of things I wanted to get if I could afford it but, alas, I couldn't.
I did however find another Nikon L35AF. I have three now. I bought it for $2. Which is a great price for one. Though I am willing to buy rather beat up shooter versions.
The other find is above: the Voigtlander Vito B with a 50mm, f3.5 Color Skopar.
I am very excited about this camera as I've been hankering for a Color Skopar or Tessar viewfinder camera for the last few months. What makes this a terrific camera is it has no selenium meter.
For a user, it is hard for a compulsive guy like me to carry a selenium camera with the nagging feeling (it's not an unfounded feeling, it is indeed a fact) that the irreplaceable meter is being drained.
That's why you haven't seen many shots from my three Olympus Trip 35, Olympus XA1, Werra II or Agfa Optima. All of them use selenium.
This camera, which I bought for $45, is guilt free. No draining light meter. No batteries to worry about. And as you may know about me, I don't mind overexposing...so the Vito B is the next camera to load with film.
I have discussed some interesting pointers for how to shop for one and I will compile them together and post soon.
I hope you either took great pictures or found great cameras today.
April 12, 2011
The RE-35 | Digital cartridges for analog 35-mm cameras prank from a few weeks ago was annoying.
While no camera maker would ever try to develop such a product, it would be great if an Impossible Project-styled digital sensor effort for film cameras would emerge.
Back in 1998 (above), there were dreams of bringing such a product to market by a company called Imagek. It later became Silicon Film.
I really think Kodak should try to build a black and white sensor emulating Tri-X. It's innovative and would elevate the brand. The miniaturization and power issues would be fascinating. Selling digital Tri-X might not make good product engineering but it would be great branding. I think it would sell.
There are actual reason to make a dedicated b&w sensor but I won't get into it here.
Okay. I'll stop day dreaming.
Left is a sample of the EFS-1 in action a decade ago.
Here is part of the technology's sad history.
Posted by JJ Lee at 1:45 PM
April 8, 2011
"Vancouver Camera Show and Swap Meet
Sponsored by the Western Canada Photographic Historical Association
Vancouver's original and Canada’s largest camera show withTables available at $40 each
More stuff, more people, better prices
Next show: Sunday, April 17, 2011!Location: CAMERON RECREATION CENTER, 9523 Cameron Street, Burnaby (next to Lougheed Mall. Click for directions and maps)"
Posted by JJ Lee at 10:03 AM
April 6, 2011
|Andy Warhol Polaroid image of Dolly Parton, 1985|
While many would be familiar with Warhol's use of photography in his screen prints and paint works, and how he used serial images to reflect consumer culture and the media, his photography is relatively overlooked.
The current University of Delaware show includes 60 photographs which, one hopes, will expand our knowledge of this aspect of artist's production.
Of course, this blog has always been fascinated by the promiscuity of his camera usage: here, here & here.
If a camera made the job of taking photographs easier, Warhol, it would seem, would give it a try.
His free use of many different camera makes and models parallels his consumptive pattern when it came to auctions and antiques.
For those who can't make it to Newark, Delaware, there is the exhibition catalogue with an essay by
April 5, 2011
This is the first of the EE Matic series and was produced in 1963. The run may have gone until 1965 when the EE Matic Deluxe was introduced.
Apparently, this camera has a shutter speed range of 1/30 to 1/250. The lens is a 40mm f2.8 Hexanon with a Konishiruko tag, my first camera to have it.
The focus range is 3 feet to infinity.
ISO range is 10 ASA! to 200 ASA.
The filter thread is 49mm.
The camera is auto exposure or
aperture priority (I am wrong: the aperture setting is for use with a flash. According to one Japanese camera blogger, the shutter speed in flash mode is 1/60).
In auto mode, the shutter will lock under low light. A red flag will appear in the viewfinder window.
Unlike later EE Matic's this 1963 version does not indicate shutter speed in the viewfinder.
In auto exposure mode, one should press the shutter release half down before firing. This allows the aperture to stop down before the shutter fires.
Pressing the release too quickly may cause the auto exposure shot to be taken at f2.8 as the shutter may open and close before the aperture stops down.
That said, the selenium meter works which is happiness.
April 6 - I did find a Japanese blogger who documented a visit through the innards of the camera. The Google translator works nicely but I wish I could read it in Japanese.
If you are looking for an overall semi-official history of Konica, check out Kenko's timeline of both Konica and Minolta.